Our rest day in The Pas left us well fed and rested. The generous support shown by Steph’s father and his friends, and the amazing baking by our host, Gene Germaine, got us more then ready for next stage of our journey. Shortly after The Pas, we approached the end of the North Saskatchewan River and entered Cedar Lake. It was nice to observe the gradual change in scenery: the dense forest slowly gave way to willows and finally to seas of high grasses. As we paddled through the grassy marsh, the sound of bird calls was so loud, it drowned out conversation. We had been advised that camping spots were limited along Cedar Lake and that strong winds could hamper our progress, so we decided to take the opportunity to celebrate this year’s summer solstice with an overnight paddle. Unfortunately, increasing cloud cover and strengthening winds overnight eventually forced us to stop paddling, and we rested in the anchored boats until sunrise. We finished our 24 hr paddle with a much needed rest on a lovely beach at the start of the East Mossy Portage.
Our trek along the East Mossy Portage went very well. After an 8 km walk down a very hot and unused road, followed by a couple hundred meters of scrambling down an old trail, we arrived on the shores of a glassy calm Lake Winnipegosis. The immense size of Lake Winnipegosis was very impressive and at most times we were unable to see the opposite shore. The lack of people on this lake was surprising; we saw only a few cottages on the south end and no boats on the lake.
Paddling on the big lake was fun, even though we were once again facing strong head winds, the ability to paddle throughout large open spaces was a welcome change after being bounded by river’s banks. Even better was the good swimming that we took advantage of during most lunch times and evenings. Abby and I found ourselves surrounded by a school of gigantic buffalo head carp, it was in a way the prairie equivalent to boating with the dolphins. Due to flooded shorelines, finding camping spots was a bit of a challenge. We managed to finds suitable sites on higher ground after wading through shoreline swamps. Due to less than ideal camping and persistent mosquitoes, we often opted to spend an increasing amount of time in the boats. Nonetheless, spirits continue to be high and were enjoying the long days and warm summery weather. <Shane>
Winnipegosis: What a lake! It treated us so well for a day and a half with flat calm water and sunshine - some beautiful paddling. But on June 23rd the lake’s attitude changed, an afternoon thunderstorm struck with high winds from the south, and we struggled against a headwind for the rest of our time on the lake. We were forced to take a day of rest on Sugar Island after the wind shifted during our supper break and any attempt to escape the island resulted in a swamped canoe. This unplanned break worked wonders for us all however, and felt more like a vacation than a marooning. We ate pancakes for breakfast, exchanged haircuts, swam in the impressive waves, and took extra long naps, as well as performing minor repairs to the canoes. Due to the persistently high winds, the lake elevation rose by a 2 feet overnight at the shore of the island. We woke at 4 am the next morning to beat the wind and successfully made it off Sugar Island.
The days following are a blur of 6 foot cresting waves in my mind. Huge swells rise from these enormous lakes, the likes of which I can only compare to ocean waves. We developed a bit of a game to make paddling against the waves more fun, a kind of canoe X Games. From the waves we’re able to launch the bow of the canoes further into the air, and in mid air the bow paddler has time to do trick of some sort. Round side boat grabs, overhead paddle spins, the classic Superman pose while hollering "Blastoff!”, were the most common and served to entertain us while we fought the headwind. Next time you’re out paddling in big waves give this a try, it’ll take your mind off of the faceful or lapful of water you’re about to receive, and its fun.
The end of Lake Winnipegosis brought us to the friendly community of Meadow Portage. We were met with such kindness and interest from the community, this type of interaction was a welcome surprise after our week without seeing anyone other than our group members. Due to the issuing of dangerously high wind warnings on Lake Manitoba, we decided to take a hike instead of paddling against the wind, to switch it up a bit. We extended the traditional 7.5 km portage into 80 km by walking for two days along the highway from Meadow Portage to the community of Guynemer. So many people stopped us to chat and offer their help or encouragement, I’ve been really inspired by their kindness and generosity… but there will be more about the great folks we met in Ross’ post. Back on the water, this time on Lake Manitoba, which is slightly different from Winnipegosis in the level of development along the shore. There are ranches and homes scattered along the whole way. We celebrated Canada Day at The Narrows, where we sang our best karaoke for the occasion. On the southern end of Lake Manitoba we passed the community on Big Point where many of the lakefront cottages have been badly damaged by the flooded lake, several had waves washing directly into them. There is so much water in the lake; we were able to paddle down the street at Delta Beach before beginning our portage to the Assiniboine River.
We did the 30 km hike to Portage-la-Prairie on June 4th, and wouldn’t you know it - we had a tailwind! We set up jackets and flags as sails on the decks of our canoes which gave us momentary relief from pulling and pushing in the heat of the day. From Portage-la-Prairie we paddled downstream on the Assiniboine River. The Assiniboine is overfull and flowing fast, it has breached the dykes in many places and has transformed fields into lakes. We were able to paddle the 155 km in a day and a half with the help of the strong current. On July 6th we pulled up in Winnipeg and have enjoyed 3 days of rest at the home of Bill and Pat Briggs. I’m feeling rested and ready to get on the water again, and looking forward to the next section of our journey… Western Ontario! <Abby>
After being buffeted by waves on Lake Winnipegosis we were forced to our feet again by wind warnings when entering Lake Manitoba. We walked south from the Meadow Portage to Rorketon, MB and east to Lake Manitoba. Being on the road put us into more contact with people than we had had for some time. The exceptional kindness of the people of Meadow Portage, Rorketon, Crane Narrows, and the areas between was humbling. As we walked the temperatures soared past 30 degrees Celsius and we were provided with cold water by several passer’s by and even driven to town to pick up more provisions. Our night ended over beers with a stranger on a lonely back road. License plates don`t lie. Manitobans truly are friendly.
At the outset of our journey we had decided to try to catalogue the importance of freshwater resources to Canadians. Canada's waterbodies have shaped our history and continue to figure prominently in the Canadian identity. They are hotbeds of biodiversity, our favourite recreation sites, and a key pillar for supporting economic activity. I have often thought of them in a purely advantageous light. I have learned of flooding and drought through my training as a hydrologist but never before had I experienced flooding on the scale as we have paddled through between Prince Albert, SK to Winnipeg, MB. The prairies are a truly amazing and beautiful, albeit harsh environment. There is some irony that in a land so prone to drought, floods of this magnitude are possible. We paddled past cabins that had been gutted by waves on Lake Manitoba. We paddled across farm land that had been inundated by The Assinaboine River after having breached its banks. The water rushed across meanders and out of the channel to the surrounding land. Water continues to shape Canadians in many ways, including adversity. Manitobans continue to confront the flooding of their rivers and are working tirelessly in efforts to save their homes and the homes of their neighbours. And they continue to do so with a grace and fortitude that is truly admirable. <Ross>
Our trek along the East Mossy Portage went very well. After an 8 km walk down a very hot and unused road, followed by a couple hundred meters of scrambling down an old trail, we arrived on the shores of a glassy calm Lake Winnipegosis. The immense size of Lake Winnipegosis was very impressive and at most times we were unable to see the opposite shore. The lack of people on this lake was surprising; we saw only a few cottages on the south end and no boats on the lake.
Paddling on the big lake was fun, even though we were once again facing strong head winds, the ability to paddle throughout large open spaces was a welcome change after being bounded by river’s banks. Even better was the good swimming that we took advantage of during most lunch times and evenings. Abby and I found ourselves surrounded by a school of gigantic buffalo head carp, it was in a way the prairie equivalent to boating with the dolphins. Due to flooded shorelines, finding camping spots was a bit of a challenge. We managed to finds suitable sites on higher ground after wading through shoreline swamps. Due to less than ideal camping and persistent mosquitoes, we often opted to spend an increasing amount of time in the boats. Nonetheless, spirits continue to be high and were enjoying the long days and warm summery weather. <Shane>
Winnipegosis: What a lake! It treated us so well for a day and a half with flat calm water and sunshine - some beautiful paddling. But on June 23rd the lake’s attitude changed, an afternoon thunderstorm struck with high winds from the south, and we struggled against a headwind for the rest of our time on the lake. We were forced to take a day of rest on Sugar Island after the wind shifted during our supper break and any attempt to escape the island resulted in a swamped canoe. This unplanned break worked wonders for us all however, and felt more like a vacation than a marooning. We ate pancakes for breakfast, exchanged haircuts, swam in the impressive waves, and took extra long naps, as well as performing minor repairs to the canoes. Due to the persistently high winds, the lake elevation rose by a 2 feet overnight at the shore of the island. We woke at 4 am the next morning to beat the wind and successfully made it off Sugar Island.
The days following are a blur of 6 foot cresting waves in my mind. Huge swells rise from these enormous lakes, the likes of which I can only compare to ocean waves. We developed a bit of a game to make paddling against the waves more fun, a kind of canoe X Games. From the waves we’re able to launch the bow of the canoes further into the air, and in mid air the bow paddler has time to do trick of some sort. Round side boat grabs, overhead paddle spins, the classic Superman pose while hollering "Blastoff!”, were the most common and served to entertain us while we fought the headwind. Next time you’re out paddling in big waves give this a try, it’ll take your mind off of the faceful or lapful of water you’re about to receive, and its fun.
The end of Lake Winnipegosis brought us to the friendly community of Meadow Portage. We were met with such kindness and interest from the community, this type of interaction was a welcome surprise after our week without seeing anyone other than our group members. Due to the issuing of dangerously high wind warnings on Lake Manitoba, we decided to take a hike instead of paddling against the wind, to switch it up a bit. We extended the traditional 7.5 km portage into 80 km by walking for two days along the highway from Meadow Portage to the community of Guynemer. So many people stopped us to chat and offer their help or encouragement, I’ve been really inspired by their kindness and generosity… but there will be more about the great folks we met in Ross’ post. Back on the water, this time on Lake Manitoba, which is slightly different from Winnipegosis in the level of development along the shore. There are ranches and homes scattered along the whole way. We celebrated Canada Day at The Narrows, where we sang our best karaoke for the occasion. On the southern end of Lake Manitoba we passed the community on Big Point where many of the lakefront cottages have been badly damaged by the flooded lake, several had waves washing directly into them. There is so much water in the lake; we were able to paddle down the street at Delta Beach before beginning our portage to the Assiniboine River.
We did the 30 km hike to Portage-la-Prairie on June 4th, and wouldn’t you know it - we had a tailwind! We set up jackets and flags as sails on the decks of our canoes which gave us momentary relief from pulling and pushing in the heat of the day. From Portage-la-Prairie we paddled downstream on the Assiniboine River. The Assiniboine is overfull and flowing fast, it has breached the dykes in many places and has transformed fields into lakes. We were able to paddle the 155 km in a day and a half with the help of the strong current. On July 6th we pulled up in Winnipeg and have enjoyed 3 days of rest at the home of Bill and Pat Briggs. I’m feeling rested and ready to get on the water again, and looking forward to the next section of our journey… Western Ontario! <Abby>
After being buffeted by waves on Lake Winnipegosis we were forced to our feet again by wind warnings when entering Lake Manitoba. We walked south from the Meadow Portage to Rorketon, MB and east to Lake Manitoba. Being on the road put us into more contact with people than we had had for some time. The exceptional kindness of the people of Meadow Portage, Rorketon, Crane Narrows, and the areas between was humbling. As we walked the temperatures soared past 30 degrees Celsius and we were provided with cold water by several passer’s by and even driven to town to pick up more provisions. Our night ended over beers with a stranger on a lonely back road. License plates don`t lie. Manitobans truly are friendly.
At the outset of our journey we had decided to try to catalogue the importance of freshwater resources to Canadians. Canada's waterbodies have shaped our history and continue to figure prominently in the Canadian identity. They are hotbeds of biodiversity, our favourite recreation sites, and a key pillar for supporting economic activity. I have often thought of them in a purely advantageous light. I have learned of flooding and drought through my training as a hydrologist but never before had I experienced flooding on the scale as we have paddled through between Prince Albert, SK to Winnipeg, MB. The prairies are a truly amazing and beautiful, albeit harsh environment. There is some irony that in a land so prone to drought, floods of this magnitude are possible. We paddled past cabins that had been gutted by waves on Lake Manitoba. We paddled across farm land that had been inundated by The Assinaboine River after having breached its banks. The water rushed across meanders and out of the channel to the surrounding land. Water continues to shape Canadians in many ways, including adversity. Manitobans continue to confront the flooding of their rivers and are working tirelessly in efforts to save their homes and the homes of their neighbours. And they continue to do so with a grace and fortitude that is truly admirable. <Ross>
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